First make a bunch of fence posts by chopping off the top of old vine posts from the last vineyard you displaced.
You chop off the tops because otherwise the posts are too long and the cows like to scratch on them.
Bruce the saw and a pile of post tops. The fun here is making sure the saw blade misses all the old nails that are still in the wood. The wood itself is called Acacia and is very long-lasting in the soil. These posts were probably in their vineyard for thirty years or more.
Now any posts still with a vague point get a second life as a fence post. This is one I’ve wired up to be one side of a simple wire gate with screw-in metal thingies to anchor the wire and insulate from the post.
After using these for a while I am not so hot on them. Under cow pressure we’ve had the plastic piece pop out of the screw and short out the fence. For the vast majority of the posts I use the old-school ceramic insulators.
This fence was done a little wire ago. It is on the farm perimeter. We use two galvanized steel wires and fence posts around five paces apart for the perimeter, although because of hard spots in the soil the spacings end up irregular. I like it like that.
I’ve seen some amazing fencing online but this seems to have work for our herd. We’ve had fencing issues from short, weak old posts that break, and from metal t-posts that just get pushed over through the clay soil but not with these big vine posts. Yet.
grasspunk.com 
Building fence the Finnish way, you use the plentiful old spikes/posts that were used to cure hay on in the field, wait a year or two until they rot through at ground level and tip over. 🙂 A lot of them are tall enough to use both ends for a post if you then push them down the other way around, so you’ll get your fence back up for another two years ^_^
I’ve used a two-strand gate I read about in Greg Judy’s book that I’ve been very happy with. The wires from run into a fiberglass post at the gate handle end. There’s either a piece of pipe in the ground to seat the low end of that fiberglass post into, or a loop of yarn around the wooden fence post near the ground. There’s another loop of yarn near the top of the wooden post post to slip on the fiberglass post. I think Judy used four of five strands on his sheep-proof gates, but two have been enough for me. Sometimes more than one strand’s seemed useful when I’ve brought the group into a new paddock and left them to graze by the gate. Once they’ve rushed in through that gate it can take a few reminders of running up to it again to notice there’s a fence running there now, and seeing more than one line has helped.
Can you get pin-lock insulators over there? We like them more than any other insulator we’ve tried. http://www.kencove.com/fence/Assets/Images/products175/I8P_New.jpg
Recycled fencing = green fencing to go with your green pastures!
Those big vine posts make great looking fences 🙂